Monday, 23 January 2012

Cuidad Perdida


One of my main reasons for visiting Colombia was to complete the 5 day trek to Cuidad Perdida; The Lost City, hidden in the depths of the Colombian jungle. Many people are unaware of the trek to Cuidad Perdida, making it difficult to find information about how to reach the magnificent Lost City. Luckily, Gillian, an Australian girl that I had met earlier on in my trip was also eager to do the hike, so we made our way to Santa Marta, the closest city to the trek, packed up all our essentials into one backpack, and boarded a little chiva bus that took us three hours out of Santa Marta along bumpy dirt tracks hanging over tree covered cliffs.


After our adventurous drive, we took to the road on foot following the narrow path through the trees on the steep inclining mountains, and waded through rivers. We stopped off at a stunningly beautiful lagoon where we jumped off the rocks into the refreshing water, desperate to cool down.

It was a tough climb to the top but the scenery was stunning, overlooking green mountains amongst the stormy black sky with the clouds hovering below. It seemed very eiree.



We continued to the camp descending on the narrow muddy paths of bright white and illuminous orange and red. Eight hours after leaving Santa Marta, we finally reached our home for the night.

That night it rained, which gave us hope that we would not be bothered by the numerous poisonous snakes surrounding the camp, we would only be bothered by the noisy frogs jumping around our hammocks. It was exceptionally cold and uncomfortable sleeping in hammock, so I awoke with sunrise feeling far from refreshed for our second day of hiking.

It was a difficult morning, leaving the camp at 7am into the depths of the jungle with more steep inclines and river crossings. We passed a small village of round, thatched-roofed houses belonging to an indigenous tribe. The children came running to greet us but soon became shy as we attempted to speak to them in Spanish.



 After a couple of hours of difficult hiking in the heat, we were rewarded with an incredibly beautiful lagoon with small waterfalls on either side. The emerald green tinted water surrounded by vines and hidden by trees was far too inviting to ignore. It was the perfect refreshing break from our trek.




I was reluctant to leave the lagoon and its beautiful surroundings but eager to get to our next camp. After walking in the midday heat with  heavy backpack I was delighted to finally reach our camp for the evening, and even more delighted with the view from our beds.


We had a relaxing afternoon sunbathing on a rocky island in the middle of the river, surrounded by incredible scenery.

Day three was another early morning and a difficult start up slippery, muddy mountains and through the depths of the jungle. The river crossings were the most difficult yet with fast flowing rivers and strong currents pulling at us as we crossed. After two hours of extremely tiring inclines, battling with the heat and humidity, the scenery dramatically changed into an eiree-looking, almost mystical rainforest. We spent hours crossing over waterfalls and negotiating pathways over slippery, moss covered stepping stones. It felt as if we had entered a forgotten jungle.

 



Our camp for the night was a tent perched on a rock overlooking a cascading waterfall and fast-flowing river, in the depths of our hidden rainforest. An incredibly beautiful sight.


The next day, we woke up at 5am in order to start our uphill hike to The Lost City. We set out across the river before sunrise, climbing over huge rocks and boulders. There were a few occasions were I was a little scared and hesitant as I jumped from rock to rock clinging on in the hope that I would not fall into the river 20 metres below. We finally reached the 1200 moss-covered stepping stones leading up to Cuidad Perdida.


The steps were steep and narrow making it a difficult climb, but well worth it for the incredible views of the Lost City ruins, set amongst the mountains. Incredible.

After admiring the view with a well deserved beer, we began the dreaded journey back. What we had covered in the past three and a half days, we would hike in the next day and a half. Meaning very early starts and long, hot days through our forgotten jungle, mystical rainforest, eiree mountains and beautiful lagoons.




Sunday, 15 January 2012

Mud Volcanoes in Cartagena



Cartagena is a beautifully colourful coastal city in the north of Colombia. The old walled city containing some of Colombia's most attractive architecture is a maze of vivid colours, colonial buildings and grand balconies overlooking the busy but perfectly beautiful streets. On the other side of the walls lies a very different city; a choatic city of seedy salsa bars, regaeton music blasting accross the streets and street stalls selling every type of tropical fruit imaginable. Once I had stepped through the archways of the walled city, I felt that I had left Colombia, and really entered the Carribbean.

The enchanting city of Cartagena has more to offer than just interesting architecture, it is also home to the mud volcano.  As we made our way to the volcano, an hour outisde the city centre, I was surprised to find it was set overlooking a very peaceful lake. We climbed our way to the top of the volcano, not quite prepared for the usual mud volcano experience. We climbed into the small crater, full of warm, sticky mud before recieving a mud massage as we helplessly floated around in the thick volcanic substance.



Once completely covered in mud, we relaxed, floating around the volcano in the sun whilst the mud bubbled below us.



After bathing in the mud, all ready and eager to wash it off, we made our way down to the lake where a number of Colombian women waited to assist us with the washing off of the mud. This was no easy task, and the woman were far from gentle. A rather bizzare experience that left us all feeling radiant and moisturised but far from relaxed and in need of a hot shower.


Friday, 13 January 2012

Monserrate


Monserrate mountain looms over the capital city of Bogota, offering incredible views of this enormous city. In order to get to the top of Monserrate you can hike the two hour incline or take a cable car. We opted for the cable car given the high temperature and humidity.



The views at the top are breathtaking and I was surprised at the sheer size of Bogota. After exploring the small church perched at the top of the mountain, and the pretty handy craft market we made our decline, deciding to walk to take full advantage of the view.



Tuesday, 10 January 2012

Zipaquira

Zipaquira is a small, picturesque town two hours north of Bogota. Although the town itself is pretty with lots of old colonial buildings, the main attraction that draws people to Zipaquira is the impressive Catedral de Sal; an old underground cathedral, carved under the mountains and made completely from salt rocks.



As you enter the narrow tunnels walking further underground, you pass 14 small chapels each containing a vividly-lit cross carved from salt.






Before finally reaching the balconies overlooking the impressive, colourfully lit main chamber.





On either side there are smaller but equally impressive chambers where over 3,000 people attend weekly mass every Sunday. This magnificent creation is a labyrinth of archways, tunnels, stairs and balconies making it fun to explore but easy to get lost.

Monday, 9 January 2012

Bogota

As soon as I landed at Bogota airport, 2600 metres high, I was immediately hit with altitude sickness. I knew that I would have three days of headaches, dizzy spells, breathlessness and tiredness but I was not going to let that stop me from exporing Colombia's capital city. I'm staying in La Candelaria, the oldest and most culture-rich part of the city, full of vivid-colours, old colonial buildings and grand churches, there is something interesting to observe on every corner and it clear that this is the artistic side of town.

Every Sunday La Candelaria closes its streets to traffic to allow a parade of pedestrians and cyclists to take over. The chaotic streets surrounding the beautiful buildings become filled with cyclists, skaters, skateboarders, and I even saw a young girl on a llama. So I thought I would join the action. I signed up for a bike tour with Juan, a super-friendly local from Bogota Bike Tours, along with 5 other eager tourists, and we set off to explore the city. As we passed through the colourful streets and tree lined plazas of La Candelaria, local musicians played traditional music on xylophones whilst children happily danced around. 

After we rode through Parque Nacional, onto the football stadium and quickly through the red light district, we stopped off at a market to try some of the local delicacies including delicious-looking but not-too-tasty Colombian fruits and guava jellied candy served with cheese, which were surprisingly yummy.

As we continued on through the more prestigious districts, past typically Colombian villages and through some areas that I would not dare to cross by myself, we stopped off at a very grand, red brick building. As we waited at the door for the security to let us in, I wondered what this impressive building could be. I soon discovered it was the city's bull fighting ring. Bull fighting season does not start until February so the place was completely deserted, giving us the freedom to explore.


We ended our five hour bike journey at the magnificent Plaza Bolivar, the perfect place to people watch and admire the stunningly beautiful architecture.

Saturday, 7 January 2012

Hola Colombia!

After three months away from this incredible continent, I have finally made my return. With only four weeks to spare, I decided to spent all of my time (and money) exploring South America's most notoriously dangerous but overwhelmingly beautiful countries; Colombia.

For me, January will be a month full of vibrant cities, beautiful beaches, paradise islands, jungle adventures, lost cities, and lots of salsa, sangria and spanish.

Sunday, 9 October 2011

Hasta Luego South America

After a 39 hour bus journey and 7 long hours at the Bolivian border, I have finally made my way back to my favourite South American city, Buenos Aires, which will unfortunately be my final destination on this trip. My travel plans have been cut short as South America is not as cheap as expected and so my funds are running low! So, its time for me to say goodbye to South America for now.

I have had an incredible 15 weeks in this amazing continent. I have been to some to some unbelievable places and met some unforgettable people along the way. The Amazon, the Atacama Desert, Rio De Janiero, Iguazu Falls, Buenos Aires and the many beautiful Brazilian beaches have been just some of the highlights of my trip. I will be sad to leave South America but have two and a half months of quality time with friends and family ahead of me in England, Hong Kong, Sri Lanka and where ever else the world takes me. I will be back in the new year to continue my adventure from Buenos Aires to Mexico and everwhere inbetween.

For now, Hasta Luego South America.